For most first-time buyers, the FHA vs conventional decision comes down to two numbers: your credit score and your down payment. Get both above certain thresholds, and conventional wins. Fall below them, and FHA often makes more financial sense — even though it sounds like the "second choice."
This guide breaks down every meaningful difference between the two loan types — down payment, credit requirements, mortgage insurance costs, loan limits, and total long-run cost — so you can make the right call for your situation.
What Are FHA and Conventional Loans?
FHA loans are insured by the Federal Housing Administration, a government agency under HUD. Because the government backs the lender against default, lenders can offer FHA loans to borrowers with lower credit scores and smaller down payments. The tradeoff: you pay for that insurance in the form of mortgage insurance premium (MIP) — both upfront and monthly, for the life of the loan in most cases.
Conventional loans are not government-backed. They are issued by banks, credit unions, and mortgage companies and typically sold to Fannie Mae or Freddie Mac. Because there's no government guarantee, lenders require stronger borrower profiles. The tradeoff works in your favor if you meet the bar: no mandatory upfront insurance fee, PMI that cancels once you reach 20% equity, and lower long-run mortgage insurance cost for most borrowers.
Head-to-Head: FHA vs Conventional
| Feature | FHA | Conventional |
|---|---|---|
| Minimum credit score | 580 (3.5% down) / 500 (10% down) | 620 |
| Minimum down payment | 3.5% (580+ credit) | 3% (first-time buyer programs) |
| Upfront mortgage insurance | 1.75% of loan | None |
| Monthly mortgage insurance | 0.55%/yr (most loans) | PMI cancels at 20% equity |
| MIP/PMI cancellation | Life of loan (if <10% down) | Cancels at 80% LTV |
| Max DTI ratio | Up to 57% | 45%–50% |
| Loan limits (2026, standard) | $524,225 (most areas) | $806,500 |
| Property condition requirements | Stricter (FHA appraisal standards) | Standard |
| Best for | Credit score 580–679, small down | Credit 680+, 5%+ down, longer stay |
The Mortgage Insurance Problem
The biggest long-run cost difference between FHA and conventional is mortgage insurance. Understanding this is critical:
FHA Mortgage Insurance Premium (MIP)
Upfront MIP: 1.75% of the base loan amount, charged at closing — but typically financed into the loan. On a $350,000 home with 3.5% down ($12,250 down), the base loan is $337,750. The upfront MIP is $337,750 × 1.75% = $5,911 — added to your loan balance, bringing it to $343,661. You pay interest on this.
Annual MIP: Currently 0.55% per year for most 30-year loans with less than 10% down. This is charged monthly (0.55% ÷ 12 = 0.0458%/month). On the $337,750 base loan, that's roughly $155/month initially, declining as the balance falls.
The life-of-loan problem: If you put down less than 10% on an FHA loan, MIP cannot be canceled — ever. Even after you've built 20%, 30%, or 50% equity, you keep paying. The only way out is to refinance into a conventional loan once your credit improves or your equity reaches 20%.
Conventional PMI
Private mortgage insurance on conventional loans is fundamentally different: it cancels automatically when your loan balance reaches 80% of the original home value (LTV = 80%). At that point, you request cancellation (or the lender removes it automatically at 78% LTV). No PMI required at all if you put 20%+ down.
PMI cost on conventional loans varies by credit score and LTV, but roughly: 0.2%–1.5% of loan annually. A borrower with 700 credit and 90% LTV might pay 0.5%–0.7% annually — similar to FHA. But it goes away; FHA MIP doesn't.
Real Dollar Comparison: $350,000 Home, 700 Credit Score
Let's run the numbers with a concrete example to show when FHA wins vs conventional:
| Scenario | Down | Mo. Insurance | 5-Year Total | 30-Year Total |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| FHA, 3.5% down, 6.5% rate | $12,250 | ~$158 | $132,400 | $687,500 |
| Conventional, 5% down, 6.875% | $17,500 | ~$163 | $131,800 | $659,000 |
| Conventional, 10% down, 6.75% | $35,000 | ~$130 | $125,600 | $626,000 |
| Conventional, 20% down, 6.625% | $70,000 | $0 | $108,400 | $545,000 |
The key insight: with a 700 credit score, FHA's rate advantage (lenders price FHA loans differently due to the government guarantee) may be offset or exceeded by the life-of-loan MIP. Over 30 years, conventional at 5% down beats FHA at 3.5% down by roughly $28,000 — even though the initial monthly payment is similar.
The Crossover: When Does Conventional Beat FHA?
The crossover point where conventional becomes cheaper depends on three variables: your credit score, your down payment, and how long you stay in the home.
- Credit score 580–619: FHA is almost always better. Conventional is unavailable below 620, and FHA rates at this score range are genuinely competitive.
- Credit score 620–659: FHA is usually better, especially with less than 10% down. Conventional LLPA surcharges at this range are very high.
- Credit score 660–679: Depends heavily on down payment. At 3.5%–5% down, FHA often wins short-term (years 1–7); conventional wins long-term (years 8+) once PMI cancels.
- Credit score 680–719: Conventional begins to compete seriously. With 5%+ down and a plan to stay 7+ years, conventional is often better. With a short-term plan (2–5 years), compare totals carefully.
- Credit score 720+: Conventional is almost always better except in very specific situations (extremely low down payment, high DTI).
Use the FHA vs conventional calculator to input your exact credit score and down payment and see the 5-year total cost comparison for both loan types.
FHA Property Requirements — Often Overlooked
FHA loans come with stricter property condition requirements than conventional. The FHA appraisal is both a market value assessment and a safety/livability inspection. Properties must meet Minimum Property Standards (MPS). Common FHA appraisal failures that don't affect conventional loans:
- Peeling paint on exterior (especially in pre-1978 homes — lead paint concern)
- Roof with less than 2–3 years of remaining life
- Broken windows, doors that don't function, damaged flooring
- Non-functioning utilities (HVAC, plumbing, electrical)
- No handrails on stairs with 3+ steps
- Missing gutters, active water damage, foundation cracks
This matters most when buying a fixer-upper, foreclosure, or older home. If the seller won't make repairs and the property fails FHA standards, you may lose the sale — or need to switch to a conventional loan if your credit supports it.
Who Should Choose FHA?
- Your credit score is below 680 — especially 580–659
- You have less than 5% for a down payment
- Your DTI is 43%–50%+ (conventional won't approve you)
- You're buying in a competitive market and need the lowest down payment to preserve cash
- You plan to stay less than 5–7 years (before MIP cost compounds significantly)
- You plan to refinance once your credit improves past 720
Who Should Choose Conventional?
- Your credit score is 720 or higher
- You have 10%–20% for a down payment
- You're buying a property that might not meet FHA minimum standards
- You plan to stay in the home 10+ years (PMI cancels, MIP would have continued)
- The home price exceeds the FHA loan limit ($524,225 in most areas)
- You want flexibility — no FHA appraisal requirements, no upfront MIP
FHA Loan Limits for 2026
FHA sets annual loan limits by county based on local median home prices. For 2026:
- Standard areas (most of the US): $524,225 for a single-family home
- High-cost areas (California, New York, Hawaii, Colorado metro areas, etc.): Up to $1,209,750
- Alaska, Hawaii, Guam, Virgin Islands: Special higher limits apply
If your home price exceeds the FHA limit for your county, FHA is not an option regardless of credit score or income. Conventional loans have a higher conforming limit of $806,500 in standard areas and $1,209,750 in high-cost areas.
Decision Table by Buyer Scenario
| Buyer Scenario | Recommendation | Why |
|---|---|---|
| 620 credit, 3.5% down | FHA | Very high conventional LLPA at 620; FHA rate advantage + lower required down |
| 660 credit, 5% down, buying in 2 years | FHA | Short hold = life-of-loan MIP doesn't compound much; FHA rate is better at 660 |
| 680 credit, 10% down, staying 10 years | Conventional | PMI cancels around year 6; conventional MIP cost is lower overall by year 10+ |
| 720 credit, any down payment | Conventional | At 720+, conventional rate + PMI almost always beats FHA MIP combination |
| High DTI (48%+), 640 credit | FHA | Conventional maxes at 45%; FHA allows up to 57% back-end DTI |
| Home price $600,000, standard area | Conventional | Exceeds FHA loan limit ($524,225); FHA is not available |
Before deciding, run your specific numbers through the FHA vs conventional calculator. Also check your credit score's impact on your exact rate using the credit score mortgage rate calculator — the rate difference between 659 and 680 is often larger than buyers expect.